Labels:text | black and white | letter | font OCR: GREAT FERMENTATIONS of Marin MAKE GREAT BEER 87 LARKSPUR ST. - SAN RAFAEL, CA 94901 . 415/459-2520 AT HOME If you're lecky, you have a brew-pub close by, and you can have the best of the new American beers every day. But .. if your township is dry, or you're a little short of charge this week, or you're in training to open your own brow- LD, this kit will make it easier to duplicate the general idea of the fine, hand-nade beers being produced in the Ecor Reraissance of the 90's. Brewpubs usually use all grain; we take the short-cut of malt extract, with corn Sugar for priming. The basic technique is very simple. We've measured everything for you but the water. You need E gallors of that. plus containers for cooking your brew, fermenting It, and bottling it when the time comes. he make it in several styles; American Light Ale, Light Lager, or Dark Lager contain corn sugar or rice sugar to lighten the brew; Pub Light Lager, Pub Light Ale, Pub Amber, Pub Porter, and Pub Wheatbeer are all-ralt, but medium-bodied, with about 5 lbs. of malt in the batch. The Full Bodied Kits, English style Pale Ale, Porter, and Nut Brown Ale, Irish Stout, Scotch Ale ard the Continental Light and Dark Lagers, Bock and Vienna all have 7 or more pourds of malt. Use the entire kit op in making a 5 gallon batch. Save the Frining Suger for bottling time, but everything else is usec up. Pay no attention to the instructions on the can of malt, they are for cheap sugar beers, and we can do better than that. Take the time to rehydrate your yeast in pla'n warm vater, about 100 degrees, for 10 minutes before you add it to your brew; ther feed it cooled wort (unfermented beer), a little at a time, until you get it to within 10 degrees of the wort you're adding it to. This avoids temperature shock to the live yeast. Dissolve your Malt Extract and Water Treatment in at least two gallers of warm water. Take the time to get it completely dissolved. The kit makes 5 gallons, but you don't need to boil the whole 5 gallons. Co boil as much as your stove can get to a rolling boil. Stand by with a pitcher of cold water in case it starts to boil over. If your kit contains Bittering Hops, add them to the brew after it has boiled for about 10 minutes. If your kit contains any grain malts, they can be boiled in at the same time. Continue boiling for about half an hour, or even for an hour. Boiling helps to clarify the finished beer, and, of course, it also sterilizes the beer. Nothing dangerous can live or grow in beer, but the same things which make sour cream can grow in beer, so if you don't want sour beer, keep it as clean as possible. If your kit contains Brewing Sugar or Dry Rice or Wheat Extract, stir these in the last couple minutes of the boil so they will also be sterilized. At the very end of the bail, adc the Aromatic Hops, and turn off the heat. After you finish the boil, you want to cocl the beer down below 100 degrees F. This can be done by adding cold water, by putting the boilirg kettle in a cold water bath in a sink, or with a wort-chiller. Get It cooled down and adjusted to a 5 gallon batch. Then add the Yeast, cover the brew, and let it work. Oo not seal it up unless you have a fermentation lock or something to relieve the pressure of the ges produced by the yeast. There are only two times when home brew is dangerous. One is if you seal it up tight when it is fermenting, the other is if you use It to get yourself tight, and then go driving. Use all the yeast in the bit, & mininun 2 grams per gallon. [ usually ferment it in a plastic bucket for just the day or two it takes to get past the foaming stage, and then transfer it into a glass bottle while there is still plenty of yeast nowing around. Today's yeasts clear very well, ard if you transfer it too late, all the yeast is on the bottom, very little cets carried over into the bottle, and you end up with a months long fermentation, Of course, you can stir it up, but carly transfer is better. Some brewers prefer to do the whole thing in glass. You can make good beer either way, just be sure you leave the beer on a good bed of yeast long enough to finish fermentation. It should be done within a week. It will foam a lot the first day or two, so give it foaming rour. After the foam drops. the beer "coes anaerobic", and should be protected from sir contact with a fermentation Icck. When the beer is finished, you will see that the bubbles come mich further ipart, and the top level of the beer begins to clear. Before it becomes completely clear. while there is still some yeast there to carbonate the beer, siphon the beer back into your bucket and dissolve the small packet of priming sugar (6 oz. of Corn Sugar) into the brew. Nix the sugar in well, ard bottle the beer, in crown-cap bottles, or "Grolsch" type clip-top bottles. Let it age for a week before you chill it, so the yeast has time to finish making the bubbles. Store it bottom down, and pour it out carefully so you don't disturb the natural yeast sedinent at the bottom of cach bottle. WARNING LABEL (Since Ilome Brew is not yet regulated by the government, you may wish This PUB-BIEN is so doe-gone good to cut th's out and paste it on your beer. you want to drink more then you should (Feel free to make copies) Just chew the pint. escher tre quert. and you'll stay out of Murt Court.
(.png)
